A number of steel treatments are used on cases and Milanese bracelets including IP gold and bronze. They come in 38mm or 44mm stainless steel models, all using Swiss Ronda quartz movements. U-Boat is comfortable to say that its customer base is mainly men aged between 25 and 50 years-old, but women are not forgotten and this year have an especially striking watch in the form of the multi-coloured Rainbow collection.Īt U-Boat, even the physically unalterable colours of a rainbow have been subverted by Mr Fontana as he designed mother of pearl dials that sometimes darken from pink to green and other times transform from azure to mauve or orange to violet. Other Dark Moon watches for this year include black PVD or plain steel models with beige numerals, a significantly smaller 38mm version that might be worn by a lady, and a 44mm piece with bronze IP coating and a heavy hand finished calf leather strap. Either can be worn on matching steel bracelets or on a rubber strap. There are two versions of the Red model, one with black PVD and one without. Their black faces with red markers sit under curved red mineral glass where the oil is filled just short of capacity so there is a constantly dancing bubble of air under the dome. They use Swiss Ronda 712.3 quartz movements, lubricated in their bath of oil, in 44mm steel cases. Mr Fontana channelling his inner werewolf, perhaps. U-Boat has added to the Capsoil family this year with a sub-collection called Dark Moon - a reference to the blackness of their dials being like the dark side of the moon - and even given them a horror inflection with a blood red and black model. U-Boat’s Capsoil, first seen in 2019, is a watch that is entirely filled with oil, similar in concept to the artisan watchmaker Ressence, which makes a tiny number of watches priced at around £40,000 each.Ĭapsoil takes the idea and delivers it in watches priced closer to £1,500. Mr Fontana clearly has a vivid imagination that conjures watch designs that are unafraid to challenge convention. Uniqueness is seen in the multi-coloured mother of pearl dials of the Rainbow collection rarely used bronze is chosen as a case material for the 2020 Sommerso and uniqueness is delivered in a blood red version of the hypnotic Capsoil watch. The way these pillars support both consistency and innovation is perfectly illustrated in the key watches launched by U-Boat this year. Italo Fontana perfectly understands the meaning of innovation, as he constantly creates value for his customers. For example, he has recently been using anatolite, tungsten and uncoated bronze. He loves exploring new ideas, without being influenced by the market. Italo is interested in all materials, from classic steel to titanium, tungsten, carbon, copper, gold, silver and ceramic. U-BOAT uses modern and unusual techniques and materials. Proud of its Swiss movements, each and every watch is created and assembled by artisans based in Lucca headquarters, Tuscany, Italo and U-BOAT’s place of birth and hometown. The basic features identifiable in each U-BOAT collection are craftsmanship and the “Made in Tuscany” factor. In their lines it is possible to recognise Italo’s imprinting, because he personally designs each model. The creations have a very distinctive design recognisable even from a distance. Identity is the key word for the U-BOAT brand. ![]() The trick is that U-Boat is built on a solid foundation with four pillars, defined as:Ġ1. That is hard to do while maintaining an identity with cut-through in the hyper-competitive market for independent watchmakers. I have no obligation to create the same over and over again,” he adds.įor a relatively young watch business, founded in 2000, U-Boat has managed to establish both an instantly recognisable look for its watches (large, muscular and vintage) and develop a surprisingly broad range of unique styles with watches like its ladies’ Rainbow and oil-filled Capsoil. “I have always been fascinated by design, I create in total freedom,” says Mr Fontana. Just like the 1942 concept, every oversized U-42 has its crown on the left - a signature choice for the brand - and it uses the same crown locking mechanism and studded bezel as his grandfather’s concept. That watch was never produced during the war years, but its design was discovered decades later by Italo Fontana and was used as the blueprint for the modern day U-Boat U-42 family of limited editions.
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